Visit Seoul

Suggested Itineraries

기능성 메뉴

More than Seoul: The DMZ

Introduction

A six-kilometer stretch of land extends across the Korean peninsula. Known as the Demilitarized Zone (DMZ), it’s an iconic reminder of the tragedy of war, the separation of a people, and one of the saddest legacies of the Cold War. Among the world’s most heavily militarized places, the DMZ’s uniqueness is why it’s also Korea’s most popular destination for foreign visitors. Where else can you peer into an eerily empty North Korean propaganda village, or feel the palpable tension as your feet straddle the actual border inside the Military Armistice Commission building? Most of the most popular DMZ attractions are located within 90 minutes of Seoul, and this tour will take you there!

Course Overview

This course will be somewhat different from our previous tours. Since it’s inconvenient or impossible to visit many of the best DMZ destinations by public transportation or private vehicle, this course will describe some of the most popular organized tours operated by local companies. Then, we’ll provide details on many of the best destinations in the “western front” of the DMZ, such as Panmunjeom or the Joint Security Area (JSA), the Dorasan and Odusan observatories, the Third Infiltration Tunnel, and more… After reading about the sites and tours, it’s up to you to decide which tour fits best!

After the tour buses return to Seoul, we’ll visit the War Memorial of Korea, whose extensive exhibits on the Korean War offer additional insight into the devastating civil conflict. Afterwards, we’ll conclude our tour with a delicious dinner in the Hannam-dong neighborhood!

So, there you go, a special course that enables you to pick what best fits your interests and schedule. Are you ready? Then…

Let's Get Started!

Course Checklist...

Before we make our way to the DMZ, there are a few important things you should know about tour destinations and operators. The DMZ isn’t your typical tourist attraction, so being fully informed will help ensure the best travel experience.

Please consider the following:

#1 Sometimes tours are cancelled.
Military activity may require tour operators to cancel specific tour locations, or the tour altogether. Please note that such decisions are made by military personnel (not tour operators), and are done so with your safety in mind.

#2 Please obey photo rules
Of course, you’ll want to snap photos of your DMZ experience. However, once you enter the DMZ, your tour guide will most likely inform you when and where it’s permissible to take photographs. Should you take snapshots in prohibited areas, be prepared to yield your film, memory card or even your camera! Please note that cameras with a zoom capability of over 100 mm are prohibited.

#3 Some nationalities face restrictions
Please note that access to the Joint Security Area (JSA) within the DMZ is restricted to certain nationalities. Furthermore, even citizens from some approved countries may need to pre-submit their passport information several days or weeks ahead of time for clearance. Please check with the tour operator for details.
(Note: See the sidebar for details on restricted nations).

Specifically, Chinese and South Korean citizens who wish to visit the JSA must apply to receive permission. Chinese tourists typically must apply 10 days in advance, while South Koreans must undergo a background check, which can take two months. Please contact the tour provider for details.

#4 Dress with respect
Parts of the DMZ (especially the Joint Security Area) strictly enforces a dress code. Military policy requires all visitors to display a “neat and presentable appearance.” Generally, this means no ripped jeans, flip-flop sandals or clothing with profane or provocative text. Sports or athletic clothing (including gym shorts or track/stretch pants) are also prohibited, as are sleeveless shirts, tank tops and excessively baggy clothing. Please contact your tour provider for details.

The United States Forces Korea (USFK) regulates
which countries’ nationals may enter the Joint
Security Area (JSA). Current regulations prohibit
citizens from the following countries:
Afghanistan, Cuba, Iran, Iraq, Libya, North Korea,
Pakistan, Sudan, Syria

Citizens of the following countries and territories
may apply to join a JSA tour. However, they must
email a color scan of their passport photo page to the
tour operator, typically 7-days prior to the tour date:

Albania, Algeria, Armenia, Azerbaijan, Bahrain,
Bangladesh, Belarus, Bolivia, Bosnia, Burma, Egypt,
Georgia, Hong Kong, India, Indonesia, Jordan,
Kazakhstan, Kuwait, Kyrgyzstan, Lebanon, Macau,
Malaysia, Morocco, Nigeria, Oman, Palestinian
Authority, China, Qatar, Russia, Saudi Arabia,
Singapore, Somalia, Taiwan, Tajikistan, Tunisia,
Turkmenistan, Ukraine, United Arab Emirates,
Uzbekistan, Venezuela, Vietnam, Yemen

Due to periodic changes to these lists, it’s advised
that you contact your tour operator to confirm.

#5 Consider the weather
The weather will impact your DMZ tour experience! This may seem obvious, but on an especially cloudy, foggy or rainy day, it may be difficult to see into North Korea at the observatories. There’s plenty else to see, but it’s just something to keep in mind.

#6 This isn’t Disneyland!
Finally, although the DMZ represents Korea’s most popular tourist destination, it’s not your typical attraction. The two Koreas remain technically at war. Especially inside the JSA, you’ll be just a few meters from armed North Korean soldiers. Any provocative action can literally put your life (and the lives of others) in danger. It’s critically important that you listen carefully to instructions from military personnel and tour operators.

The Tours!

We’re almost ready to take off!

As mentioned previously, it can be inconvenient or even impossible to visit many of the best DMZ destinations on your own. Thankfully, several Seoul-based tour companies conduct great package tours to the best DMZ sights. Almost every tour ventures inside the Demilitarized Zone, while many also venture inside the Joint Security Area (JSA). Once again, however, please note that several nationalities - including South Koreans and Chinese - face restricted access to the JSA. Please inquire with the tour operator.)

As you choose your tour company, you’ll want to keep a few things in mind. Obviously, choose a tour that’s offered in your language! You’ll also want to pick a tour that fits your schedule – some depart quite early and return in the afternoon, while others depart a bit later and return in the evening. Take a close look at the options, and pick the best tour for you!

Disclaimer: Please note that these tour companies operate independently of the Seoul Tourism Organization (STO). As a result, we cannot take responsibility for their policies or procedures. Furthermore, please contact them directly to book your tour, or for additional information.

Languages: English, Japanese Schedule: Tuesday~Saturday 10:00 Registration (at Myeong-dong Lotte Hotel, 6th Floor) 10:30 Depart Seoul 17:30 Return to Seoul (at Myeong-dong Lotte Hotel) Cost: 77,000 won (78,000 on Saturdays) Itinerary: Camp Bonifas -> JSA -> Lunch (included) Note: Sometimes the tour includes the Freedom Bridge at Imjingak. Contact: Tel: 02-755-0073 www.tourdmz.com		Languages: English, Japanese Schedule: Varies by week. Call to confirm. 07:30 Registration (at Myeong-dong Lotte Hotel, 6th Floor) 08:00 Depart Seoul 17:00 Return to Seoul (at Myeong-dong Lotte Hotel) Note: Other departure times available Cost: 120,000 won Itinerary: Imjingak Park & Freedom Bridge -> DMZ Theater & 3rd Infiltration Tunnel -> Dora Observatory -> Dorasan Station -> Lunch (included) -> Philippines War Memorial -> Unification Park -> Bridge of No Return -> Haemaru Unification Vill. -> Camp Bonifas -> JSA Contact: Tel: 02-757-1232 www.koreahas.com
Languages: English, Japanese Schedule: Varies by week. Call to confirm. 08:00 Registration (at Myeong-dong Lotte Hotel, 6th Floor) 09:00 Depart Seoul 16:40 Return to Seoul (at Myeong-dong Lotte Hotel) Cost: 77,000 won (120,000 when combined with 3rd Tunnel Tour) Itinerary: Odusan Unification Observatory -> Unification Bridge -> Camp Bonifas -> JSA Contact: Tel: 02-771-5593 www.koreadmztour.com		Languages: English Schedule: Varies by week. Call to confirm. 07:00 Registration 07:30 Depart Seoul (at Camp Kim, Yongsan Garrison) 15:30 Return to Seoul (at Camp Kim, Yongsan Garrison) Cost: US $70 ($35 for active military personnel) Itinerary: Camp Bonifas -> JSA -> DMZ Theater & 3rd Infiltration Tunnel -> Dora Observatory -> Lunch (not included) Contact: Tel: 02-795-3028 www.koridoor.co.kr

Cruising Along Freedom Road!

Sometimes plans change! If something comes up and
you need to cancel your previously booked DMZ tour,
it’s important to know your tour operator’s cancel-
lation policy. Some offer full refunds if cancellations
are made within 1~4 days prior to the tour, while
others may charge a penalty. Contact your tour
provider directly to inquire about possible penalties to
ensure you make an informed decision.

It’s time to go!

The tour companies that offer DMZ tours may depart from different places in downtown Seoul, but all of them will drive north via the “Jayu” or Freedom Road. It’s a scenic trip along the north bank of the Hangang (River), until it connects with the Imjingak (River) and empties into the Yellow Sea.

Here’s a tip: For the best views of the river and to ensure you’ll be best positioned for a first glimpse of North Korea, be sure to sit on the bus’s left side. Although the journey will take somewhere between 60~90 minutes, chances are you won’t be bored. Most tour companies will make sure there’s a guide on board, who will review the tour itinerary, and provide interesting history about the Korean War. If you’re really lucky, this briefing will be conducted by someone who experienced the Korean War first-hand.

1. From Seoul, the bus will merge onto the Gangbyeon Expressway.

2. From the Expressway, the bus will merge onto “Jayu” or Freedom Road.

3. Depending on your tour, your first stop will be at the Odusan Observatory
or at Camp Bonifas, inside the DMZ.

A Great Divide

Upon reaching the first stop on our tour, you may already be able to feel the tension of the Korean border.

The border that separates the Koreas is like none other. Unlike most wars, the Korean War never officially ended with the signing of a peace treaty. Instead, after a three-year war that killed over three million people on both sides, the civil war was merely put on “pause” by way of an Armistice agreement that divided the Korean peninsula roughly in half. That 250-kilometer long border is buffered on either side by a four-kilometer-wide area called the Demilitarized Zone or DMZ. Despite the name, it remains among the world’s most heavily militarized borders. It’s also been the site of ongoing conflicts that have taken the lives of hundreds of South Korean, American and North Korean soldiers.

The Sites:

What follows are descriptions of many of the most popular sights located on the “western front” of the DMZ. It’s also a common sequence of most tours, although there is some variation.

Site #1: Odusan Observatory

Although this observatory is technically located outside the DMZ, it offers one of the best views into North Korea and has been visited by over 10 million people since it was opened in 1992. The five-story tower is less than half a kilometer from the North on a bluff overlooking where the Hangang (River) and Imjingang (River) meet. Inside, the complex contains exhibits on everyday life in North Korea, and 20 telescopes point northwards, just in case you want to try and get a look for yourself!

Site #2: Camp Bonifas

For the lucky tourist who can enter the Joint Security Area (JSA), your first stop will probably be Camp Bonifas. The United Nations Command military post is located just 400 meters south of where the DMZ begins in the JSA, which is also known as Panmunjeom. Camp Bonifas’s motto is “In Front of Them All,” which gives you an idea of your proximity to the border! Named after the U.S. Army Captain Arthur G. Bonifas who was killed by North Korean soldiers in the 1986 “Axe Murder Incident,” this is where U.S. soldiers provide orientation tours. These tours typically include a short video explaining the history and purpose of the JSA.

Site #3: MAC Buildings

Probably the most exhilarating and genuinely nerve-wracking experience of any DMZ tour is if conditions allow you inside a Military Armistice Commission (MAC) building. Straddling the border inside the JSA this series of gray and sky blue buildings (gray-North Korea, blue-United Nations Command). This is where formal negotiations take place between North Korea and the United Nations Command Security Force, which represents the South and the U.S. If conditions permit, your tour group will be allowed inside the middle MAC building. Inside, the tension is palpable. Sunglass-wearing South Korean soldiers stand in a silent, strained Taekwondo martial arts pose with gloved fists at the ready. Just outside are North Korean soldiers peering in. If you stand on the northern side of the long wooden table, you’ve technically stepped foot into one of the world’s most reclusive nations… if only for a moment!

Site #4: DMZ Theater and Museum

After the exhilarating experience of visiting the MAC building, it’s time to do some cave spelunking. Well, not really! But one of the scariest examples of North Korean plans to attack the South are a series of tunnels that were dug beneath the DMZ and into South Korean territory. As part of the Third Infiltration Tunnel complex, the DMZ Theater offers a glimpse into North Korea’s audacious attempts to invade the South. Typically a prerequisite to entering the tunnel, the seven-minute film provides a good primer on the Korean War. Connected to the theater is a well-done museum.

Site #5: Third Infiltration Tunnel

After watching the video and viewing the museum, you’re ready to venture deep into a North Korean infiltration tunnel! To date, four have been discovered along the DMZ, although many expect there are more yet undiscovered. The Third Infiltration Tunnel was discovered in 1978 and it’s a stop made on many DMZ tours. At a length of 1.6 kilometers (435 meters of which were under South Korean soil!) it’s where tourists can trudge down a steep pathway some 265 meters underground. You’ll need to borrow a helmet and hunch your back, unless you take the tram (depending on the tour). Upon its discovery, North Korean troops painted the tunnel walls black as part of a bizarre explanation that they were simply mining coal! Note: photographs are prohibited inside the tunnel.

Site #6: Dorasan Observatory

Several tours conclude here. When you arrive, it’s impossible to miss that the building’s camouflage pattern. The Korean words “The best army under the sky” is also displayed prominently. Located near a rail station that aspires to connect into North Korea, the observatory contains a large auditorium with a wall of glass that faces North Korea. Inside, a guide will explain the DMZ via a model map located at the front of the room, and outside, there’s a large viewing platform where visitors can pay 500 won to peer via telescope into North Korea’s Gijeongdong propaganda village, the world’s tallest flagpole and the Gaeseong Joint Industrial Complex, one of the most important examples of inter-Korean cooperation.

Site #7: Lunch!

By now, chances are you’ve worked up an appetite, and most tour operators will fit a lunch break in after a visit to the Dorasan Observatory. The nearby cafeteria allows tour goers with the opportunity to eat a provided lunch, or bring your own. Keep in mind that some tours charge extra for the lunch. Located next door is a gift shop, just in case you want to pick up a special memento of your DMZ tour experience!

1. Once your tour has finished, it’s time to get back
      on the bus for the return trip to Seoul.
2. This time you’ll want to sit on the bus’s right side if
      a river view is important.
3. Upon reaching downtown Seoul, you’ll want to make
      your way to Samgakji Station (subway lines #4 and 6).
4. Use exit #12. Follow the sidewalk as it curves
      around the corner. After 250 meters, the entrance to
      the War Memorial will be on your left.

A War Memorial

If your tour returns to Seoul in the early- to mid afternoon, you’ll have sufficient time to visit one of Seoul’s best museums, the War Memorial of Korea. We visited the museum on a previous course, but this time we’re going to take a look at the Memorial’s extensive Korean War exhibits, which occupy almost the entire second floor.

The museum’s Korean War rooms detail the tumultuous time for military and civilians, alike. Exhibits show the chronology of the separate governments created in the South and North in the three years following liberation from Japan. Once war broke out, you can read the chilling words on the front pages of several international newspapers. A number of exhibits also provide highly-detailed descriptions of important battles, such as the Incheon Landing, which helped rescue South Korea from an aggressive Northern takeover. One of the most interesting aspects of the collection are copies of once top secret messages sent by U.S. military officials describing the tenuous condition of the South Korean army. Outside the facility are scores of black granite slabs with the names of fallen soldiers lined in gold leaf. It’s a stark reminder of just how many people gave their lives so that a prosperous South Korea could exist today.

Info: Museum Hours: 09:00~18:00 (Admission until 17:00); Free admission to primary exhibits.

1. After exiting the War Memorial, cross to
      the opposite side of the street.

2. Board bus #110B and pay 1,000 won
      cash (or use your T-Money transit card).

3. Get off the bus at the Hannam-dong
      bus stop.

Hungry Yet?

After a long day in the field and in the museum, I think you’ll agree that it’s time to eat! Lucky for you, you won’t have to travel far, because central Seoul’s Yongsan District is well known for a large selection of excellent restaurants from a variety of culinary traditions. One popular neighborhood in particular is Hannam-dong! Located just off a main avenue, one entrance to Hannam-dong features several great restaurants, while father up the hill are a number of foreign embassies.

Actually, looking at the diverse array of restaurants located in the area, the different types of cuisine are almost a reminder of which nations came to South Korea’s aid in the Korean War.

Here are a few great neighborhood suggestions:

	Banana Grill Huge hamburgers made from scratch at this cute place featuring sky blue, polka-dotted blankets on every chair. 261-6 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu Tel: 02-792-3088
La Cocotte European Bistro This funky restaurant features an extensive list of pastas, as well as a few chicken and beef dishes. 28-9 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu Tel: 02-798-0052		Gae Sung Kalguksu If you’re looking for some hot Korean handmade noodle soup, this is your place! 30-4 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu Tel: 02-749-2234
	Mama’s Deli This cheerful place serves healthy Korean cuisine, without sacrificing flavor. 30-3 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu Tel: 02-790-2468	Mucho’s This Spanish-themed restaurant specializes in grilled chicken and draft pints of beer 261-6 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu Tel: 02-793-8886

Just in case, you can also find a number of bakeries, cupcake shops and other confectionaries to satisfy your sweet tooth in Hannam-dong!

Lynn’s Cupcakes

32-17 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu
Tel: 02-792-0804

Tyche’s Cookie

32-17 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu
Tel: 02-790-8808

Conclusion

So, there you have it, a fairly comprehensive review of the Korean War – from the safety of a museum’s exhibits, to the exhilarating danger of the front line.

Thanks for coming along, and don’t forget to visit again for another future tour!